Peter used to visit Angkor three times. In this entry, he told his last visit and how Angkor’s changing

Angkor Wat

My first visit to Angkor was in 1995. It was the year before the coupe of the two prime ministers but after a long period the Khmer Rouge had controlled the land and had brought the country into a state of chaos, turmoil and fear. I had arrived in Phnom Penh by flight from Bangkok. At the time I was told it was the only safe way to come to Cambodia, although I learned that the overland route from Vietnam was supposedly open too.

Phnom Penh was a surprisingly interesting and relaxed city at the time, especially considering the hectic previous years. I had come at the right moment; it was festival days with dragon boat races at the Mekong.

But I had not come for the dragon boats, this was just the cream on the pie, so to say. I had come to learn more about the recent and not so recent history of Cambodia.

Cambodia has such a history that no one in the world can ignore. The pictures of Angkor Wat had always made a huge impression on me and now it was possible to visit them.

However, to understand the past of Cambodia, I felt I had to see the Killing Fields too. And I was happy I did that, considering what happened later in Siem Reap. Cambodia has many Killing Fields, I went to visit and pay respect to the victims to a Killing Field near Phnom Penh and after I visited the Tuol Sleng prison. It was a horrifying experience only to be compared with the German concentration camps of World War II in Europe.

Photos showing people in such fear I could not imagine. It’s hard to understand to what cruelty humanity is able to create.

Siem Reap and Angkor

I had a boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. In 1995 even the Ton Le Sap lake was at points not safe and the boats carried a soldier with a gun. At several docking points the military had machine guns ready to fire. But during the journey we experienced no problems.

Siem Reap turned out to be a small mellow town consisting in principle of one street. There were some hotels and restaurants. It was clear the Cambodians were picking up the increasing amounts of tourists but it was all still mellow.

The first night (after visiting Phnom Bakheng on the western hill top) I had my dinner in a local restaurant. At a certain moment we heard a lot of noise outside. The staff screamed…”attack, attack… hide”.. We heard a lot of what the staff called machine gun fire. Everyone was under the table. It turned out to be fireworks for opening a new shop. The situation showed how deep the fear at the time was embedded in the minds of the people.

The next day I rented a bicycle and went to see Angkor. I bought a 3 days pass and went in. In the next days I visited many of the important temples including Angkor Wat (just outside the Angkor Thom city walls), the magnificent Bayon temple, the terraces and many other smaller temples.

Of course the Bayon temple was the highlight, but Ta Phrom was probably as impressive. At the time you couldn’t visit the outer temples of the complex as the Khmer Rouge was still controlling large parts of the country.

Back on bicycle

Some years later I came back. By then Cambodia was at peace. I cycled from the Thai border to Siem Reap, a mostly dust road. The area had been closed when I first visited but now it was safe.

I saw just smiling faces along the road. People were working now on the land, no longer afraid the crops would be destroyed or stolen by Khmer Rouge soldiers. If you really want to see something of rural Cambodia, this is a good an easy accessible area.

At arrival in Siem Reap I was totally covered in red sand. But when I went into the Angkor area the next day I saw it was as impressive as I have seen it a few years earlier. This time I was able to visit some other further away temples including the Beng Melea.

Beng Melea is maybe one of the most interesting temples because it is not restored. Here you can get an idea what the explorers in the mid 19th century saw when they came (I purposely do not say “discover” because it was never really lost, not even for the western world).

Angkor is such a widespread area, there are so many sites to visit. A three day pass gives you only the possibility to visit the most spectacular temples. For most people that is enough but as I am interested in a little more than average, I went back. I visited Angkor three times, and I can assure you, every time I came back, I was as knock out as the previous time. Angkor is one of the architectural wonders of Asia, if not one of the world and only a few sights in Asia can compete with Angkor.
Source: Peter - Holiday in Angkor Wat ‘s Blog

Christopher Parkin told his interest when traveling around ..Angkor..temples.

Let me start this off like I always do…short bus ride…tuk tuk drivers and hotel offers…we know where we are going…so leave us alone…get our room…done. Now the fun begins.

Well the first day was not much fun… We had some planning and some business to tend to so it was spent mostly on searching around all the travel offices pricing out the best flights and buses. After a quick bite to eat we were off to bed because the 2nd day was going to be a long one.

Up at 5 for sunrise at Angkor Wat. It was said to be a thing of beauty so we decided to make the trip. It wasn't anything special because the cloud cover was too thick and the hoards of people made any photos almost impossible. We had booked a full day tour from sunrise to sunset of all of ..Angkor..'s temples. yeah I know I said I was sick of temples but this one was actually something I was looking forward to. The temples are very Indian Jones-ish. Even parts of Tomb Raider were filmed here…explains Angelina's obsession with adopting Cambodian kids, that coupled with the fact that these little guys are pretty cool…I don't blame her.

Anyway, the temples are pretty cool looking. Krista read the book to us as we wondered about and acted as our tour guide. She is a great job as she always does but something about 5 am makes me forget all that I learned. I don't even remember the names of all the temples. It was a lot to do in a days time but it was well worth it. As I walked through I just couldn't get my head around how all this stuff was built so long ago. It is like the pyramids…I just don't get it.

Walls carved with detail intricate scenes. Face after face carved out of the towering buildings looking over the towns below. Everything was amazing…it felt like at anytime I would be chased by a huge cement ball with my whip as my only weapon, spouting cheesy lines like…"snakes…I hate snakes." dun dah dun duhhh…dun dah duhhh…"run, Indy, run!" We even found a room that looked like the room that the blow dart shot through walls. Careful not to set off any booby traps we made our way through each temple. Sorry I got a little carried away with the Indian Jones thing but it really did feel like that.

We went to watch sundown a top of one of the huge temples on a hill where once again the clouds and crowds had there way. We made our way back to our tuk tuk and eventually home. Well that was our plan until was saw a Mexican restaurant on the way. We have been over budget but it was Kev Bones last day with us. We left it up to him to decide what we were going to have for dinner so Mexican it was…we might have had some influence considering Kevin is an Irish vegetarian…I don’t think he has much taste for Mexican food. Chimichangas and chips and salsa…I’m happy and extremely tired. Bed-time for me. We had a goodbye beer with our Lucky Charms friend Kev and made our way home. I will say this…before this life is over I will come back to Cambodia (i said the same for Vietnam) The people here are amazing. Yeah they bug you for money and rides on the tuk tuks but it is because they don’t know any better. Westerner = money. That is all they are taught.

When you actually talk to them and try to make friends, you find they are great people and smart kids, with a ton of potential if given the right opportunities. I love this place. I will miss it.
Time to pack the bags and move on to Laos. See ya!

Source: Christopher Parkin from Travel Blog

More information:

Cambodia offers much for the sightseer and adventurer. From the famed Angkor Wat, the largest ancient temple in the world, to museums and galleries, there is something for everyone. I would like to tell you some must see dsestinations in Cambodia.. Come and check it out !

Angkor Wat
The number one reason to come to Cambodia – although not the only reason – the temple complex in Siem Reap houses a plethora of sites to explore. Apart from Angkor Wat, two other attractions are Bayon and Ta Prohm temples.

Battambang
Cambodia’s second city, Battambang contains impressive colonial architecture and is an up-and-coming destination now used frequently by visitors as a base from which to view nearby temples and villages.

Kompong Luong
The floating town of Kompong Luong is home to thousands of residents on Tonlé Sap lake. It’s quite impressive to see homes, restaurants, schools and other town structures rising and falling with the tide. You’ll find the village 40kms north of Pursat.

Phnom Udong
Lying 40kms north of the capital, Phnom Udong was the capital of Cambodia from 1618 to 1866, and many of the ruins are in good shape including those of Ta San Mosque. There is also a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge with bones of people buried in the 100 or so mass graves of the area.

Phsar Thom Thmei (Central Market)
A tourist attraction in its own right, the central market built during the French colonial era in 1937 is a strange yet impressive art deco structure that’s got a hint of Khmer lotus about it. In other words, it’s an artistic collaboration between French and Cambodian styles. Even if you don’t plan to buy anything get over here to take a look.

Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda
This is one of the top sights in Phnom Penh. Dating from the mid-1860s, the Royal Palace is quite opulent and on the same entry ticket is the Silver Pagoda housing a Buddha statue made mostly of gold and 10,000 diamonds.

Sihanoukville Beach
The beach at Sihanoukville is the only place where you can take part in water sports like scuba diving. It’s also a great base for exploring Ream National Park. There are several good beach areas and even a nearby waterfall where you can swim. Also in the vicinity is the resort town of Kampot.

Tuol Sleng S-21, Museum of Genocide
A high school in the capital turned into a gruesome torturing prison – this is one of the must-sees of Cambodia. Somewhere around 17,000 political prisoners were tortured in this facility and also killed here or in the infamous Killing Fields nearby, all in just the span between 1975 and 1979. Make sure to pick up a guide for this tour, as many have personal experience with the prison and can add a lot to the experience.

For more information about Cambodia, you can visit : Active Travel Cambodia and Visit Angkor Temple

You will find what you need for an adventure journey to Cambodia.

And remember that : The more you go, the more you get.

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There are so many exciting sights in Cambodia that you’ll hardly find yourself without things to do. Just scrambling around the ruins at Angkor can keep you busy for days if not weeks, or you can climb up for a bird’s-eye view of the complex by hot-air balloon. The country is beautiful, and even more incredible for rising out of the intense history of war and genocide. Take time to visit major sites that give you a glimpse into the history of the country, but also make sure you get to meet some of the friendly and positive people who have weathered through the history.

Cook Khmer-style curry or other cuisine. There are plenty of Khmer cooking classes in the capital, held in English or French. The Frizz restaurant on Sisowath Quay operates some of the most popular courses and will have you creating an amok fish curry to die for.

Explore the temples at Angkor. You could spend oodles of time watching the sunrises and the sunsets at this amazing temple complex. Especially if you’re interested in photography, there is so much to see and so many nooks to explore. Hire a guide for a day or two to hear the stories behind the temples.

Fire a rocket launcher or M-16. You won’t find a lot of places in the world where you can go crazy firing weaponry. There are two venues that offer this bizarre form of entertainment, one in Phnom Penh and one in Siem Reap.

Get high over Angkor. The best way to see Angkor by far is from the air. It’s a spectacular sight that you will remember for the rest of your life. The tethered hot-air balloon offers a budget way to soar above the temples for about 15 minutes; or you can go all out with a helicopter tour.

Hold you nose at Stung Meanchey Garbage Dump. Your entire outlook on life will change in this one visit. Shocking, alarming and filled with despair, this garbage dump is an example of how many of Cambodia’s children spend their time – sifting through garbage all day long to survive. If your kids complain about going to school, they probably won’t after they see this. Donations can also be made to the humanitarian organisation Pour Sourire D’un Enfant at their onsite office.

Ride an elephant. If you’ve never ridden an elephant, there’s no experience quite like it. The activity is most popular in Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri. Be sure to go with a reputable company and take a guide as land mines and other dangers may spoil your day. You can also ride an elephant around Angkor or at the zoo on Mekong Island, a daytrip from the capital.

Take a sunset cruise along the Mekong river. One-hour cruises are available and will give you great insight on the lives of the people living on and around the river. The sunset is especially brilliant from the boat and this is a relaxing way to end your day.

Visit the Memorial at Choeung Ek. Located 15kms from Phnom Penh, this is a memorial to those who died in the infamous Killing Fields. Here you can view around 8,000 skulls arranged by sex and age behind a glass panel.

Visit the Stone and Woodcarving School in Siem Reap. This is a great place to see how stone and wood is carved into reproductions of the ancient Khmer temple carvings. Prices are cheap and you’ll be supporting a good cause.

Volunteer for a good cause or donate blood. There are numerous NGOs and charity organisations doing good work in Cambodia. Additionally, only about one-third of the country’s requirement for blood is being met, so you can make a donation at the Cambodian Red Cross to help.

Watch traditional Khmer theatre. A few different venues in the city offer the chance to watch Khmer performances with the most popular being the Aspara Theatre at the Angkor Village Resort, which is also a restaurant. The evening shows feature a wealth of traditionally dressed performers, meaning there is lots of gold finery on display and the chance to experience classical Khmer music and dance.

Watch traditional Khmer kickboxing. Khmer traditional boxing, or Pradal Serey, has made a huge comeback since it was banned by the Khmer Rouge. The biggest fights are held at the Olympic Stadium, but you can find smaller bouts at other venues too, so ask around.

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We left Ho Chi Minh City and headed to Phnom Penh in Cambodia on the Mekong Express bus, a ride with lovely staff but heavy on the karaoke music playing on the TV and through the speakers. The disco-type atmosphere of these really popular karaoke shows is hilarious (but not if you have a headache). There's a big dance hall with psychedelic lights flashing all around, a raised platform in the middle where the lip-syncing stars "sing" away and all around them couples dance in a very conservative manner, dressed impeccably, like it's New Years Eve. Pretty amusing. Four hours later, slightly annoying.

When we got off our bus in Phnom Penh we felt a bit like goods at a market with tuk tuk drivers haggling over who was going to get us. We were called, clapped at, grabbed, it was insane! Luckily by now we are used to this so it didn't come as a shock, but it's still a bit daunting after a 6 hour bus ride and with a headache. After looking at one super dodgy guesthouse with stained yellow sheets and walls made of moldy plywood (insert mega-shiver here!), we got driven to another one that was clean, fresh, and walking distance to nearby sights. We were sold! We crashed in bed ready to begin tackling Cambodia in the a.m.

Our first day in Phnom Penh was slashed in half by enraging airline ticket problems. I'm not even going to go into it we were so infuriated, all I'll say is that we spent a LOT of time and long distance call money trying to change dates on our "easy to change" round the world tickets. Bah, humbug! What a crock! We resolved nothing, and had to make the tough call to only spend one evening and one morning in Phnom Penh or risk not getting out of SE Asia. Anyway... we fit in as many sights as we could, and what sights we saw...

Now I know that normally I'm a bit silly when I write, putting in cute little anecdotes and dialogue, but this entry is different. We visited the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek and the Tuol Sleng Museum also known as S-21. We can tell you, very definitively that visiting these two places has left us haunted with the horrors, and I literally lost sleep last night over it. In addition, on the way to these two places we gruesomely witnessed a fatal motorcycle accident victim, who had not worn a helmet, as is the norm here. I won't go into detail, but yesterday was just an incredibly tragic day from all angles, but if you can understand my saying this, we would not change any of our experiences yesterday for anything.

The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek are the grounds where thousands of men, women and children were tortured, executed and thrown as less than garbage into hundreds of mass graves, of which 43 have not been disinterred. Initially, trucks came in packed with people for torture and execution from Tuol Sleng prison, but as their numbers increased, temporary detention areas were set up in the fields as the combatants (Khmer Rouge term for their soldiers) could not "keep up" with the high demand of executions. As you enter the killing fields you are met by a massive white tower, known as a stupa, which holds within it over 8000 skulls of victims brutally massacred on these grounds between 1975 and 1978. The skulls show evidence of these innocent people's deaths by gunshot, bashing, stabbing... The grounds are surprisingly, well, "normal". Images of open, deserted wasteland dominated our imagination, but it is in fact, much smaller in area than we thought, and there are so many beautiful trees. That is, until you read the signs at the trees, one which states that it was where a loudspeaker hung and blared deafening music to muffle the moans and cries of people and another tree which made me cry, against which children were whipped. I don't mean to be gruesome in writing this, but I just think it's so important for anyone that has limited knowledge of this to understand what the people of Cambodia have been through in very recent history. Can you even call it history? It's so recent. I also debated whether to take photos, not wanting to be disrespectful and exploitative. I decided to take a few and have included them for the same reason as above. If there are people that won't be visiting Cambodia, this is an opportunity to show this to them so that they can better understand, know what horrors this world is capable of. After all, genocide still continues in our world today.

It is interesting to note the Killing Fields are run privately by a Japanese company that charges admission to the grounds for profit. Can you imagine?! This was allowed by the Cambodian government however, who made the decision to privatize the site. Nothing in this world is outside the claws of privatization.

Our next stop that day was the first stop for many Cambodians before being sent to the Killing Fields: Tuol Sleng Museum, back in the 70's known as Security Prison 21 (S-21) where Pol Pot and other Khmer Rouge leaders and security forces detained and tortured thousands of people, again, men, women and children, before sending them to the Killing Fields (however Pol Pot and other leaders denied even knowing about S-21). Chillingly, this prison was originally a high school. From grounds of education to grounds of torture. There is nothing prettied up about Tuol Sleng to assist the faint-of-heart visitor to deal with it. Instruments of torture and rickety metal beds rest where they originally were, and black and white photographs of victims, in the exact rooms where you are standing and where they lay dying are hung on the walls. In another wing the mug shots of thousands of people are displayed, all of which likely died a horrific death. It's difficult to explain the looks on people's faces in these pictures, but I saw four distinct expressions: defeat, horror, defiance, and lack of understanding in particular from little children that would not have known what was happening. Tiny children, as small as 3 years old in "criminal" mug shots.

When the Khmer Rouge was overthrown, only 7 people out of a possible and known 20,000 survived Tuol Sleng, of which 3 are still alive. One of these men is now 61 and became a painter, depicting scenes of all he saw or heard while detained at the prison. These paintings now hang in the prison museum.

Pol Pot died in 1998 having faced a not so legitimate trial for his crimes, and it is estimated, although there are a few estimates, that it is likely that over three million people were massacred by the Khmer Rouge which he led. In addition, many other Khmer Rouge leaders have never been brought to trial. However, there are over 19,000 mass graves that have been discovered. Perhaps this is still not evidence enough. Promisingly though, within the last few months they have arrested some of these leaders and they are presently in jail.

I will stop at that for now. If anyone wants to read about this period in history, we have seen the following books circulating the streets: "Brother Number One" which is a biography of Pol Pot, and "First They Killed my Father".

I will finish on another note, our visit to the National Museum where an excellent guide taught us about Pre-Angkorian to present architecture. We became nervous 5 minutes into our tour as she continued to quiz us on what she had shown us. I can now say with confidence, however, that Scott and I can now point out to you if a statue is pre-Angkorian, Angkorian or post-Angkorian. Archeologists in the making, we are (said Yoda), particularly Scott who was a star pupil at remembering the names of all the Hindu and Buddhist gods. What a nerd. Our little tour also left us slightly more prepared to tackle the Angkor Wat (two more sleeps), as the carvings and statues and symbols now mean something to us.

And so comes to an end our short but important trip to Phnom Penh. We finished our day with happy hour martinis at the Foreign Correspondents Club which is open to the public, has some phenomenal photojournalism posted on the walls as you ascend the staircase, and provides a fantastic view of the Tonle Sap river at twilight.

No Canaussie ratings this time, as what I wrote about cannot be rated. If in Cambodia, it is imperative to see these places, and if not, maybe this will help some to better understand this country and its people. Signing out now, back soon with our wonder of the world aka Angkor Wat report.

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